It's not often that a museum visit will leave a lump to the throat and a tear in the eye - but be prepared for an emotional time at the Federico Garcia Lorca museum in the centre of Granada. A city break to this cultural city is nothing without a visit to say hello to the ghost of this beloved Spanish poet.
A literary tour
Combining a manicured park and a house tour that's brimming with history, a visit to the Federico Garcia Lorca museum in Granada is a must. Yes, you'll want to visit the Alhambra Palace, perhaps that's the reason for your holiday to Granada - but take time out to delve into the literary past too. The world and life of Federico Garcia Lorca - a life that was all too soon cut short.
Federico Garcia Lorca
Federico del Sagrado de Corazón de Jesus García Lorca - known to us as Federico García Lorca. A playwright. A poet. A theatre director. A genius.
Born a son of Granada in 1898, executed by Nationalist militia in 1936.
Just some of his famous works include:
- Gypsy Ballads
- Blood Wedding
- Poet in New York
- The House of Bernarda Alba
- Dreams of My Cousin Aurelia (unfinished)
- The Shoemaker's Prodigious Wife
- The Public
- Yerma
Where is the museum located?
Situated on the outskirts of the city, this was once the Vega or the orchard area of Granada. Head for the Camino de Ronda, which is in the modern part of Granada. It runs all along the city side of the autovia. There, you'll find the Federico Garcia Lorca Park, also known as the Huerta de San Vicente. The park was created as a memorial to Lorca, and the location houses the museum within the park, which was actually once the summer home of the Lorca family.
A summer retreat which inspired Lorca to do what he did best - write. Many of his famous works were created here, including in 1932 the tragedy Blood Wedding.
Guided tour facts
Visits are by guided tour only. Small groups are welcome on timed visits, which you book beforehand, for example, we arrived in the morning and booked for the 1:30 pm tour. The tour costs just €3 per person, with discounts for pensioners and children, and operates every day except Monday, when it's closed.
*Note to remember - no cameras or video equipment allowed inside the house, but there are plenty of leaflets and brochures available next door in the information centre/shop.
So, book in by adding your name to the list, and go and have a coffee and a read of some of the leaflets available.
What's to see inside?
There's a little bit of a snoop inside all of us - and to take the tour will propel you right back to the time of Lorca's long sunny days and summer sojourns at the house. The inside has been preserved exactly as it was for the Lorca family, and there are many original items of furnishing still there.
Beginning in the large hallway, the guide explains the family connections, and you can see portraits of Lorca's immediate family, together with the furniture of the day. On to the dining room, a lace tablecloth fashioned by his mother still on the original table. At the opposite end of the hallway, the drawing room, complete with the piano Lorca often was photographed at. Around the walls his own childhood drawings - he was a far better poet and playwright!
Into the kitchen - quite tiny, with the original solid fuel stove - the guide mentioned they had no running water, and would draw it from a well on the grounds.
Setting the scene
Upstairs, and the best bit. Lorca's single bedroom, with his original and imposing desk - the scene of many a masterpiece. To imagine him seated there, gazing out of the window at the planted and peaceful garden, seeking inspiration...I couldn't resist a quick, forbidden, touch to the wood.
Above his desk, his original La Barraca poster - his travelling theatre company, where he brought the joy of greasepaint to the far villages of the Alpujarras. We were lucky enough to experience the Barraca theatre group last year.
The other bedrooms have been knocked through and laid out as an exhibition of his life - many photographs show the story unfurled - hazy summer days, happy family gatherings, a pensive Lorca, the terrible travesty that was his end. Since his time, there have been many famous names following his trail to see the house on the Vega - we spied photos of Lou Reed, Gilbert and George, Paco de Lucia, David Byrne, Patti Smith, Enrique Morente...
Outdoors
Back through the imposing double doors into the hot, bright sunshine, blinking a little in the light, and maybe also to dispel a tear - you cannot help but feel a little wretched at the waste of talent and life that was Federico Garcia Lorca.
The gardens are peaceful, well worth an hour of city-escape. Floral arches, box hedges, swaying and impossibly tall Palm, sandy walkways and always the heady scent of Rose. Jasmine and herbs fight for the attention of your senses as you walk around the gardens, and admire the well-planned botanical treat and the well fed feline residents.
If you too, love Lorca - then do go and visit his summer home, and say hello to the ghost of the poet, who perhaps still walks the gardens...
